Curator
The Swiss goldsmith Bernhard Schobinger made the selection for 2013.
Strongly guided by his focus on the use of metal as a material and sensual material compositions, Schobinger selected 57 designers who were important to him. He did not want to show anything epigonal, nor did he want to show trends that are emerging worldwide.
“I’m not aware of any open call in the world that has been able to develop a comparable popularity over the decades as SCHMUCK in Munich, not only in terms of quality standards, but also in terms of quantity,” said Bernhard Schobinger.
Winners of the Herbert-Hofmann-Prize 2013
Fumiki Taguchi, Japan
Orders and jewellery confer authority, they are symbols of power and recognition. In Japan, the value of a piece of jewellery is very often measured by the size of the stones. Fumiki Taguchi counters this cliché in an astonishing way with his brooches, which at first glance are reminiscent of medals. Fascinated by the shapes of old badges, he bypasses the use of diamonds by designing them in a kind of trompe l’oeil effect directly from the silver of the brooches, thus imitating the luminosity of precious stones. A surprisingly new approach.
Helena Lehtinen, Finland
The group of different pendants by Helena Lehtinen from Finland comprises seven pieces of jewellery. “Family” is the title of the work, which has the character of a still life and leaves room for relationships. Simple, reduced forms such as sticks and plates that reference everyday objects. They are elevated and appreciated by the visible craftsmanship. The jury saw a convincing work in the clear rigor of the formal execution and the composition of the group in a wide variety of materials and delicate colours.
Robert Baines, Australia
Embedded in round and oval brooches with a glamorous effect, Robert Baines plays with depictions of animals ranging from cows to teddy bears. In a humorous and ironic way, he alludes, as so often, to historical forms of jewellery from past eras. History is the starting point for creating a new, expressive form of jewellery that represents Robert Baines and nothing but Robert Baines. As a storyteller, he has already become an integral part of the jewellery scene. Also with a penchant for deceiving, confusing and living out his own personal fantasies.
Winner of the Bavarian State Prize 2013
Warwick Freeman, New Zealand
Warwick Freeman is the best-known protagonist of artistically designed jewellery in New Zealand. The materials used in his works, such as mother-of-pearl, bone and stone, reflect the traditions of ancient jewellery design from the South Pacific. Freeman’s unambiguously clear design language creates jewellery of great originality, paired with an emblematic character.
