Curator

For 2023, we were able to win Caroline Broadhead, winner of the Herbert Hofmann Prize in 2022, from London for the selection from the 650 applications. She has selected 66 positions from 23 countries for SCHMUCK 2023 and explains in her statement, which is printed in the accompanying catalogue, where she sees the focal points of her selection.

“Being invited to view about a thousand pieces of jewellery of all kinds and from all over the world was an exciting prospect”, she said.

With her selection, she tried to depict the breadth of the jewellery world in 2022/2023, which, as she says, is perhaps also a reflection of the world we live in.

Catalogue

Tamara Marbl Joka, Norway

Tamara Marbl Joka has been studying at the National Academy of the Arts in Oslo, Norway, since 2022. The artist, who was born in the former Yugoslavia, still lives there today. Her brooch entitled “Mirror of the Past” is made of concrete, silver and steel. It challenges the idea that concrete is stronger than the force of nature or war. The deceptive hope of stability literally cracks and refers to the artist’s personal biography. She has survived earthquakes, war and a long migration and knows what it means when the ground begins to move beneath you. Personal experience is reflected in material and form.

Jutta Kallfelz, Germany

Jutta Kallfelz’s brooches depict rabbits in a reduced, cut-out-like form. The sculptural quality of the works carved in birch, ebony or meerschaum is a special feature. Although only fragmentary, they show the important body parts of these animals. The design focuses primarily on the ears and back, with which they mainly communicate. The reduction of the form and its dimensions create wearable small sculptures that also have a loving and humorous effect.

Neke Moa, New Zealand

Neke Moa lives in New Zealand. Her pendant “Ngãti Pukana” is linked to the cultural heritage of this country. Driftwood, jade and shell are materials that have a centuries-old tradition in the design of jewellery there. Amulets and talismans also play an important role. The “Ngãti Pukana” pendant is part of a group of works called “Rakau whakarawe”, which translates as “weapons of everyday life”. Every day we face challenges that require action, interaction and reaction. Equipped with its special materials, this piece of jewellery by Neke Moa is designed to fight in our reality and provide targeted protection.

Lisa Walker, New Zealand
Pendant made of textile, acrylic paint, absorbent cotton, ceramic

After studying in the class for jewellery and vessels at the Academy of Fine Arts in Munich under Professor Otto Künzli, Lisa Walker now lives and works in her homeland New Zealand. Her work has often been shown in the special show SCHMUCK at the Internationale Handwerksmesse and has attracted a great deal of attention for its unconventional concepts. Lisa Walker has been awarded the Bavarian State Prize 2023 for her new symbolic group of works made of textile materials in combination with ceramic elements.