Curator
The final selection for SCHMUCK 2016 was in the hands of Austrian jewellery designer Peter Skubic. He selected 66 items from 720 applications from 36 countries.
“It should be noted that the quality of the work submitted is at a high level, which is why the decision “for or against” is somewhat arbitrary. I have tried to apply the criteria that I I apply to my own jewellery work“, explained Peter Skubic.
Winners of the Herbert-Hofmann-Prize 2016
Moniek Schrijer, New Zealand
The “Tablet Of” neckpiece by Moniek Schrijer from New Zealand fulfills the main function of jewellery, the triangle between maker, wearer and viewer. It combines thousands of years of symbols on the base of a smartphone. It is a reference to history and a message for the future. But it could also become a future archaeological find, so it plays with the past, present and future. A piece that says it all – even though it’s switched off.
Jelizaveta Suska, Sweden
The “Frozen Moments” brooches by Jelizaveta Suska amaze with their mysterious material. It is a mixture of artificial and natural components and demonstrates the current examination of the materiality of jewellery. The mystery of the material is revealed schematically, it leads to a sensitive approach to the environment and it contains things hidden from view. It is a combination of artificial and natural worlds.
Stefano Marchetti, Italy
Stefano Marchetti’s “Homage to LENR II” brooch symbolises an atomic reaction, but its material combination of wood, glass, gold and platinum is reminiscent of equipment from times long past. Science and art are thus also united in jewellery and energy generation becomes an important current topic. With this piece of jewellery, Marchetti continues the tradition of his home town of Padua in the connection between science and art. It reminds us that there are other sources of energy without destroying the earth. It takes courage to make such a controversial topic visible.
Winners of the Bavarian State Prize 2016
Sigurd Bronger, Norway
The logic of the absurd, paired with a romantic view of mechanical fairytale landscapes, machines of the early industrial age or inventions of the Renaissance describe the aura of Sigurd Bronger’s jewellery. However, the Norwegian creates wearable and often humorous pieces of jewellery. He has become an important ambassador for contemporary jewellery design in Norway.
Jungwon Jung, Korea
Jungwon Jung deals with the inner essence and the actual function of jewellery. Only by wearing it does the jewellery become jewellery for him and this requires some functional parts, such as the pin for a brooch. Jungwon Jung now goes so far as to reduce his jewellery to just this needle, for which he nevertheless creates a container. The needle and container thus become an autonomous sculpture.
Kadri Mälk, Estonia
Kadri Mälk’s life belongs to jewellery. History and mysticism play an important role in her work. As a teacher and mediator, she has made Estonian jewellery design internationally famous and helped her country to make a significant contribution to its cultural identity.
